IMPORTANT: SpeedCove should not be installed over FRP, it should only be adhered underneath to the solid wall sub straight. The FRP must be terminated on top of the SpeedCove in the manufacture’s channel strip, and the joint must be sealed water tight with an appropriate adhesive and coated with the finish epoxy; or, a high-grade silicone over the dried epoxy finish.

Material needed for installation:

• The best way to adhere SpeedCove to the wall & floor is with a 2 part epoxy or polyurethane patching material, notch trowelled on the back of each piece, and a portion on the floor against the wall to support the base. Use enough adhesive material to eliminate voids. Materials with various drying rates can be used to speed up total installation time. Material should be tested for proper bond strength before using on a job.
• Certain construction adhesives with the proper ratings for your application (non-porous substrates) can be used, they must be tested for proper bond strength before being used on a job. The thinner more pliable ones are highly recommended so pieces can be “set” easier and voids eliminated. Urethane & polyurethane adhesives create a very strong bond but must be kept warm to be pliable. Some urethanes & polyurethanes will bubble if moisture is present, check with manufacturer for proper application. They should also be allowed to completely dry before coatings are applied. (1 quart size tube of any adhesive will do about 15’ of 6” system)

For aligning pieces:

• An 18 gauge pin nailer can be used to tack pieces in place until the adhesive dries. SpeedCove Systems are designed to be adhered in place, and nailing should only be used where necessary.
• An assortment of tile wedges can be used to align pieces until adhesive is set.
• Wood door shims work good where cove base is set up off floor to create slope to a drain. (Remove them after adhesive sets, before applying patching material)

For patching joints and transitions:

• The same 2 part epoxy or polyurethane patching materials can also be used to fill joints and transitions, as long as it is non-shrinking and sand-able. It is also best to use something that is slightly resilient so joints don’t show if there is any expansion/contraction in the room.

For furring out and filling in hollow spots:

• Pre-cut 3 7/8” and 5 7/8” strips of ¼” and/or ½” tile backer board work great to glue in where transitions in depth are needed against the wall so cove base can be installed straighter.
• Pre-cut 3 7/8” x ¾” plywood strips are good to have for filling in under cabinets that do not have a complete toe kick to mount the cove base to.